Con i Tuareg a Timbuctu e nel Sahara

new-con-i-tuareg-aimbuciu-e-nel-sahara

Editore: Darf Publishers, London / Tripoli
ISBN: 977549659-4

Ricordi di lontane avventure e traversate Sahariane. L’arrivo a Timbuctù, ‘Mecca’ dell’Africa, misteriosa e proibita ‘Regina del Sahara’: mito dei grandi viaggiatori arabi e degli esploratori occidentali.

Il mio primo viaggio nel Sahara l’avevo compiuto circa trent’anni fa, quando ero molto giovane, irrequietamente giovane, e del deserto conoscevo molto poco. Avevo deciso di raggiungere Timbuctù e, da lì, attraversare il deserto con una delle ‘carovane di sale’. Cosa veramente mi avesse spinto ad intraprendere, da solo, senza mezzi e preparazione, tale viaggio, non mi era, allora, esattamente ben chiaro. Ero un giovane ribelle, con la testa piena di sogni, con una spiccata confusione di idee ed un già sicuro talento a ficcarmi nei guai. E credevo allora che quello che mi spingeva verso Timbuctù e nel deserto fosse la passione per le esplorazioni e l’avventura: poter anch’io “scoprire” la mitica Regina del Sahara, che, – ancora nella seconda metà del Novecento, prima che esplodesse il turismo di massa e, peggio ancora, quello di finta avventura, rimaneva così misteriosa e lontana; poter anch’io ripercorrere le orme degli eroi salgariani della mia infanzia, o dei grandi e romantici esploratori – Mungo Park, Gordon Laing, Heinrich Barth e soprattutto Renè Caillè – che avevano affrontato prove inenarrabili, o perduto la vita, per raggiungerla e svelarne i segreti.

Con il tempo, però, avevo capito che c’era anche dell’altro. Avevo capito che ciò che realmente mi aveva spinto a Timbuctù, ciò che mi aveva indotto ad intraprendere quel lungo ed estenuante vagabondaggio nell’Azauad e, al di là, in quello che gli antichi chiamavano il Deserto del Ghir, tra forse le più impervie e desolate distese di tutto il Sahara, erano stati non solo i sogni d’avventura della giovinezza o l’epica romantica dell’esplorazione ottocentesca, ma anche altre e più oscure forze.

Si trattava della nevrosi dell’irrequietezza e della ribellione, dell’ansia di fuga e del bisogno di dimenticarsi e di perdersi nell’infinito del Vuoto e del Nulla del deserto. Si trattava, insomma, del male della modernità.

Tutto era cominciato quando ero arrivato a Timbuctù con l’obiettivo sia di scoprire la città, mito della grande esplorazione romantica ottocentesca (e che, ancora nella seconda metà del Novecento, rimaneva remota e isolata), sia di ottenere un passaggio in una delle ‘azalay’, le carovane di sale. Le azalay erano ormai, già a quei tempi, tra le poche carovane sahariane che ancora sopravvivevano all’avanzare della modernità. E trasportavano a dorso di cammello, per circa settecentocinquanta chilometri dalle miniere di Taodeni a Timbuctù, i pesanti e preziosi lastroni di salgemma…

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