CLAUDIO PACIFICO, Sahara, nel regno della Fata Morgana – Ricordi di trent’anni di viaggi sahariani, Edimond, Città di Castello, 2007, pp. 667+ Tavole fuori testo a colori.
Sahara, il deserto per eccellenza. Tra i molti modi di accostarsi al deserto Claudio Pacifico ha scelto quello della poesia e del viaggio. ll Sahara come miraggio, simboleggiato dal fenomeno della Fata Morgana: quindi mondo dell’incantesimo e dell’illusione, a metà tra l’idillio notturno e la dimensione infernale del giorno. Luogo in cui trovare una nuova realizzazione di se stessi, simbolo, esso stesso, di vuoto, libertà, rottura di ogni legame.
Ma la Fata Morgana illude. Questa libertà, questo venir meno dei legami, soprattutto il “nulla” del deserto sono una sensazione fittizia. Esso racchiude una lunghissima sua storia, fatta di civiltà scomparse, favolose città, regni, antichi re, principesse e contiene, soprattutto, le storie dei viaggiatori che l’hanno attraversato e che, nell’autore e nel libro, si affacciano continuamente e premono alla memoria con immagini, figure, citazioni poetiche.
Ho voluto cominciare con l’impressione immediata che questo bel volume di Claudio Pacifico mi ha suggerito, facendomi entrare subito in una dimensione irreale, riportandomi indietro alle prime sensazioni che anch’io ho provato, tantissimi anni fa, avvicinandomi al Sahara.
E il mio primo incontro fu proprio con quella “Grande Acacia dell’Oasi di Serdeles” l’oasi delle piccole sorgenti, che così poeticamente Pacifico ricorda. Ho detto che ci sono vari modi di accostarsi al deserto. ll mio modo non potrebbe essere stato più antitetico: operando all’interno di missione scientifiche i modi dovevano essere distaccati, analizzare pietra per pietra, strato per strato, per restituire un”immagine del Sahara perduto forse non meno favoloso, il Sahara verde degli inizi della nostra epoca geologica, ma che all’illusione degli scenari attuali voleva sostituire verità oggettiva.
Ma in questo modo molto va perduto, specialmente l’impatto immaginifico del deserto e la sua capacità di risvegliare le sensazioni più intime. E se è vero che, come individui, dobbiamo riuscire a fondere razionalità e sentimento, conservare le capacità di espressione simbolica, riuscire a rientrare in una dimensione di equilibrio con l’ambiente esterno, Claudio Pacifico è nel giusto.
Nel libro ci dice di essere venuto in contatto con il Sahara per caso e dopo letture appassionate di grandi viaggiatori: Mungo Park, Barth, Caillé. Ma, lui dice, “non erano stati solo i sogni di avventura e di gloria dell’infanzia” ma a causa delle mie frequentazioni giovanili… appartenevo anch’io a quella schiera di fuggitivi di professione, di viandanti erranti, di viaggiatori notturni e solitari” (p. 39).
Questo mondo letterario costruito dai grandi viaggiatori, esploratori, geografi, mercanti dell’ottocento e del novecento (per non parlare dei primissimi, a partire da Antonio Malfante nel quattrocento) è sempre presente nel libro, è la lente attraverso la quale passa tutto quanto viene narrato. Che, alla fine, e assai lontano da quella prima impressione che dicevo. Il libro, infatti, ha una struttura imponente e a mosaico, dove il Sahara dell’anima, si incrocia, scompare per poi ripresentarsi, con quello della storia.
Alla storiografia del Sahara sono dedicate molte parti, dai primissimi autori di cronache e di leggende (come quella del “regno del prete Gianni”, leggenda comunque soprvvissuta a lungo), alle esplorazioni dei viaggiatori eruditi del settecento, ai viaggiatori-cacciatori di antichità tra ‘700 e “800 (Drovetti, Belzoni). E, soprattutto, i viaggiatori che attraversavano il deserto per raggiungere l’Africa nera alla ricerca delle sorgenti del Nilo, come Giovanni Miani alla fine dell”800. E poi Piaggia, Casati, Giuseppe de Reali, fino a Elena di Savoia Aosta. E poi i viaggiatori partiti alla volta di Timbuctu: Horneman, Mungo Park e la sua tragica morte lungo il viaggio, lo scozz zese Ritchie, John Belford, Clapperton, Oudney: tutti attratti dalla leggenda di Timbuctu e delle sorgenti del Niger e tutti, più o meno, destinati a morire tragicamente.
Anche Caillé, il primo vero esploratore, autore di un importante “Giornale di Viaggio”, era destinato a una fine tragica. Fino a Barth, il primo viaggiatore “scientifico” insieme a Rohlfs, Nachtigal e Duveyrier, E accanto a loro altri personaggi assai più romantici, come Alexandrine Tinne assurta a immagine, per i Tuaregh, di mitica regina da adorare ne più ne meno delle loro regine mitiche, come Tin Hinan, l’Antinea, e la Principessa Dassine _ e uccisa durante un combattimento a Murzuq.
Mi sembra che questi capitoli siano particolarmente sentiti. L’autore insiste nel dire che ha conosciuto il Sahara attraverso loro, e che attraverso loro lo rivive e lo vuole esprimere, veri personaggi, attori drammatici, viaggiatori che hanno visto il viaggio come una nuova realizzazione e spesso sono morti tragicamente. L’identificazione è tanto forte che all’apparire di nuove città, di fronte a nuovi paesaggi, le parole con cui questi scrittori li hanno descritti tornano alla memoria e sgorgano naturalmente.
Anch’io nelle parole di Mori ho ritrovato alcuni dei comuni amici Tuaregh. Alcuni degli amici che mi accompagnarono nei miei primi anni nell’Acacus.
Gli autori del passato sono stati soprattutto viaggiatori e, quindi, entrano naturalmente e si compongono nell’architettura complessiva del libro. Sono compagni di viaggio. Anch”essi hanno sperimentato le stesse esperienze del lungo viaggio dell’autore. Come sono “viaggi” le ricostruzioni storiche, così le presenta l’autore: “viaggio alla riscoperta degli antichi regni sahariani e i grandi imperi sudanesi (capitoli 11 e 12),); “viaggio alla scoperta della storia antica” (capitolo 16). Erodoto, Ecateo, Plinio e la spedizione di Cornelio Balbo nella Phazania, Giulio Materno nel 86 d.C. I Garamanti, Genserico e i Vandali, fino all’arrivo degli Arabi.
Ma soprattutto il viaggio È quello suo: nel Sahara algerino, in quello tunisino, in Marocco, nel Sahara libico, in Sudan e nel deserto di Nubia. Per non dire del viaggio nella storia della legione straniera e il primo viaggio sahariano con Salgari, “I predoni del Sahara”.
Quando parla in prima persona, Claudio Pacifico suggerisce immagini suggestive. Lo stile e semplice, mai enfatico; egli ama il deserto e ne prova nostalgia, ma ha pudore a manifestarlo. La nostalgia, il ripensare il viaggio attraverso il filtro del ricordo, è una costante che dovrebbe riuscire, come lui dice, a continuare “quelle peregrinazioni sahariane e continuare a ripercorrerle e ritornare a riviverle” (p. 51).
ll ricordo del primo viaggio, insieme con Alì Aliyou, sua guida e mentore nel suo apprendistato, risponde molto bene a questa esigenza. Alì, un po’ eroe donchisciottesco, è stato colui che lo ha guidato nel suo addentrasi nel deserto, il mare del deserto perché, a un certo punto, non c’e più differenza tra distesa di sabbia e mare. Dice Aliyou, il deserto è l’oceano dove non servono remi, Anche Giovanni Checchi, autore, insieme a Piero Guccione delle prime riproduzioni di arte rupestre dell’Acacus, rappresentò il deserto dell’Idinen (il Caf Jenoun) come un mare violastro. Così gli era apparso e così lo rappresentò.
E poi c’è il problema dell’identita dei luoghi, i problemi della salvaguardia, Ritornare a Timbuctù, molti anni dopo, si rivela un fiasco, una profonda delusione tanto la città è cambiata e il degrado ha segnato i luoghi cancellando il fascino, e l’ammaliamento, vissuto ai tempi del primo viaggio.
Da quel primo viaggio a Timbuctù, sulla orme dei viaggiatori del deserto, tutti gli altri hanno preso corpo. E anche se il modo di vedere il Sahara può sembrare toccato da quella matrice originaria, anche questa alla fine è un’illusione. E un’illusione perché l’autore controlla perfettamente il suo materiale. E muovendosi sapientemente tra antiche storie di viaggi, leggende tramandate dai Tuaregh, esperienze personali di lunghe attraversate, soste e bivacchi intorno ai falò del deserto, ci fa capire come si è formata la rappresentazione del deserto.
Una rappresentazione che ha la forma di un grande affresco poliedrico, fatto di ambiente, geografia, storia e, soprattutto, uomini. Un luogo che nonostante, ma forse proprio grazie alla sua immagine “romantica”, da sempre attrae su di sé viaggi, esplorazioni e ricerche scientifiche appassionate.
BARBARA E. BARICH
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